Can anyone help me with finding an operating manual online for a la Cimbali junior?. Discover La Cimbali M21 Junior espresso and cappuccino machine: designed and built for those caterers who have limited space at disposal. Available into. -i-have-got-it-pdf-thtml parts diagram there too.
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Results 1 to 50 of 58 Thread: Add Thread to del. But given funds, it had to be second hand – I figured I would be waiting awhile. On enquiry, the guy didnt know much about it – he thought it might be called Ciambli – but could tell me it was big – 50cm by 60cm at the base. On turning up for inspection, it turns out it was indeed a La Cimbali Junior. But an older semi-automatic Typo R. The outside didnt look toooo bad. I pulled the side off the machine to look inside, and was appalled.
However, the vibe pump was working and the boiler heated water. I figured the value of the stainless steel and copper as scrap would be worth almost half this price. On return home, I went to show the missus, and tripped the fuse in the house.
Other bad points are: Good points are that the vibe pump works well goes, lets put it that way ; that the rust is mostly superficial; the electrical controls under the driptray are in quite good nick no water has found its way in here obviously and that its a Junior built like a tank, mainly out of stainless steel.
Anyway CSers, what do you think? Should I cut and run now, and save my money? Or is it junnior Share Share this post on Digg Del. La Cimbali Junior R Resized it: The manaul should be along soon to appraise your new toy. Cimbapi like the extra heavy-duty thermocouple on the boiler –looks like your boiler is also designed to radiate excess heat to the air.
It looks as though thereve been many leaks, which have already done their rust damage but should be easy to remedy with a spanner and the odd seal.
If you have the patience and inclination, youd want to strip it all, taking photos and labling as you go, and thoroughly clean every piece in citric acid, and pay attention to the frame.
But Ill leave all that to the experts here to advise you on. The best person to talk to about the restoration here is mauricem, who has two LC Juniors and has carefully restored them.
The thread is on here somewhere if you search. But for peace of mind, youll have to completely strip it down and restore it piece by piece.
For a machie this size, its not such a big drama and youll learn about how the machine works in the process. Id probably look at getting a new pressurestat as well, as the cover seems to be missing from the one you have.
These Sirai units are pretty industrial, but that still looks pretty beaten up. Manua, one thing you dont want is a leaking boiler.
They can be repaired, but the cost will skyrocket. This is a problem with old La Marzocco machines and has been reported with even new Synessos if the chloride content of the water is too high. All in all, fingers crossed, you have an potentially awesome machine.
Once its restored it should run for years and La Cimbalis have a reputation for producing great shots mahual you cimball to drive them.
Good luck with the restoration and keep us posted. So plenty of material there. Youre right about the boiler – I am worried it has a leak around the Uunior neck where it joins on the boiler. On this point, I thought the boiler was stainless steel but I have discovered a spot where what seems to be chrome has chipped off exposing copper coloured material underneath.
With a bit of luck, given your comments, it is indeed a copper boiler after all. I am slowly stripping down for a full rebuild. I pulled the element out of the boiler and was pleased to see that there wasnt too much scale at all in there – which augers well for the grouphead.
I will follow your technique on your BZ thread I recall something about citric acid, phosphoric acid and even a caustic just to finish things off junoor but I forget the details as I dont have that thread in front of me right now. But hey, this project will give me as much pleasure as restoring my AJS!
Know exactly where youre coming from. Cheers Share Share this post on Digg Del.
La Cimbali Junior R What a great pickup! No doubt youre already aware that all the spares you need can be got from Pedro at Coffeeparts. Not a bad saving over a new one at about 4 grand. La Cimbali Junior R Regarding the boiler: Nickel coated copper is common in a lot of machines and is good to have. I believe mauricem tested his boiler material and found it to be nickel plated copper as well. To loosen the fittings use either an impact wrench, or a hammer to tap the spanner to first loosen the fittings.
Also be careful not to over tighten the compression fittings.
La Cimbali Junior, first one so will probably need some help
They dont need to be too tight to work. That sounds about right to me. If youve read all those threads, then you know what sort of machine you have. Its worth going to the trouble to restore fully. Ive been busy on other “projects” They are indeed great coffee machines and although the interior looks a bit scruffy, I think jknior will find with a bit of patience and elbow grease it will come up a treat.
A lot of the gunk inside most commercial machines is coffee grounds, coffee oils and assorted yuck!!! The exterior is kept clean but the interior – well thats left to its own devices. They are very solid units and it sounds like your boiler etc is in particularly good nick, so Id do a strip and rebuild and you will have a great coffee machine which will continue to provide reliable service for decades to come La Cimbali Junior R Thanks Java B The boiler is the biggest concern at this point – all the rest of the machine is pretty much ok – nothing that a few new bits wont fix at modest cost.
I have completely disassembled it now. Also there seems to be similar growths on a number of the other boiler external joins. The HX neck appears to be pressed into the boiler somehow. La Cimbali Junior R Slowdown, That little forest mxnual white and green crystalline growth is not unusual around the manyal on hot devices boilers in hot water services, coffee machines etc.
It is caused by some weeping from the joint which contains some calcium salts as well as other salts which attack the copper very slightly. It jnuior often most pronounced near welds where the two parts are joined uneven surface where the water can concentrate and a slightly different metal which promotes the chemical reaction at that spot.
The fact that coffee grounds also collect around these places makes a bed for the water to lie in and attack the surroundings as well. Although it looks pretty bad, after a thorough descale and clean, you will almost certainly find the underlying metal and joint quite sound.
The amount of corrosion is usually very small even though the effect looks quite dramatic. The boiler only contains about 1 Bar of pressure 14 lbs per square inch junoor its not under much stress. Give it a good clean soak it in cimbbali water with lots of citric acid in a non metallic container and see what it looks like afterwards. You probably wont need to do anything further just check for weeping from the joints after assembly to prevent it happening again.
JavaB, my understanding of pressures is that everything at sea manuak is subjected to 1 bar. But when heated, boilers are that 1 bar, PLUS an additional 0.
Still a small pressure as you say. So in fact, around 2 bar. The pressure gauges ignore the first 1 bar and read pressure in excess of that.
There is 1 Bar of pressure on both the inside and outside of the boiler due to the atmosphere There is 1 Bar of pressure inside the boiler due to the vapour pressure of the steam contained therein This is not applied on the outside of the boiler An open boiler taken to M below sea level no effect A closed boiler taken to the same depth – would be crushed Its the differential pressure which the gauge measures – and will affect the boiler.
However the boiling point of the water contained is affected by both atmospheric pressure and vapour pressure above the water – a total of 2 Bar – Have I confused you enough yet? There is one – and only one – circumstance where atmospheric pressure affects the boilers stress.
If you allow the water in the boiler to cool, vapour pressure drops. If the vacuum valve fails- pressure in the boiler drops to near zero – the one bar atmospheric pressure will then crush the boiler that is why you should always open the steam valve when shutting down your machine – boilers are designed to contain positive pressure – they dont like greater pressure externally: La Cimbali Junior R My point was not so much about stress — but the fact that inside the boiler there is 2 bar of pressure.
I think we are coming to the same point but from different directions. A boiler in equilibrium with a vacuum break valve has 14lbs 1 bar of air pressure trying to “crush” it from the outside, and that is balanced by 14 lbs of pressure inside, resisting that. That “1” bar is then actually 2 bar. The original 1 bar of equilising air pressure, plus the additional 1 bar being applied by steam.
Yes, I know the first bar is cancelled out by the atmospheric pressure, and the differential is therefore just one. But nonetheless, the pressure within the boiler is 2 bar. La Cimbali Junior R Good luck with this challenge, once the boiler is soaked, descaled and buffed youll have a better idea of what needs doing, probably not much. I think home brew shops are the best sources of the large amounts of citric acid youll probably need. Its the same setup with tthe hot water tap although this is less likely to be worn, Coffee parts list the required bits.
I was purely concerned for the strength of the boiler – and if it had been compromised by the “corrosion”